When I first got the job in Saudi Arabia I knew I would have to dress head to toe in black everyday. The first time I ordered my Abaya online, opened it and tried it on, that was when it really hit me what I would be doing for the next year. I was worried it would be an oppressive burden. I wondered what I was supposed to wear underneath it and if it would be too hot. I wondered if I would have to cover my face, as well.
It's funny thinking back to these thoughts because now these days putting on my abaya is as much of a habit as putting on my jacket before I go outside in cold weather. As for what I wear underneath it: well, pretty much whatever I darn well want to. I've rolled out of bed and thrown it on over my pajamas to go to the shop downstairs, I've put it on over my sweaty T-shirt and shorts coming out of the gym, and when I go to work I'm grateful to have it on to protect my nice school clothes from the constant dust and sandstorms. I don't have to do laundry as often because of it. When it starts raining I don't worry about a rain jacket because the material doesn't soak up water easily. I have, however, tripped on it a few times going up the stairs. Luckily I have never had this problem:
There are some other benefits to the abaya. One day while eating at the food court in the mall I spilled a big blob of white sauce all down the front of myself. I grabbed some napkins and started wiping and soon it soaked into the black fabric and nobody could tell it ever happened. When staying at a nice hotel in Jeddah that had a breakfast buffet, I managed to sneak a whole picnic's worth of food underneath my abaya and didn't have to buy lunch that day.
But more importantly, having been outside wandering the streets alone, I've noticed that the amount of harassment I get from men is usually directly related to how much of myself I'm showing. If I forget to cover my head cars will slow down and young boys will shout from the windows. The men stare as I walk by and some try to follow me. When I cover myself this harassment is significantly reduced. While I don't agree that it should be necessary (men should be accountable for their thoughts and actions and learn to respect women whatever they are wearing) I do agree that I like to be ignored by these people and for now this is the best way to do it.
The Saudi men also have their own special clothing and they are very proud to wear the national dress. This is known to be much cooler than Western clothing which is necessary in the summer here. Women also have different fabric material for the summer months (but still black).
They wear a long white robe called a thobe. On their heads they wear a little skull cap called a kufeya. This keeps the shumag (the red checkered headress I like to call the picnic tablecloth) from sliding around. On top is the igal (that looks like a car's fan belt) to hold it in place.
A few weeks back I went with a Saudi friend to visit his brother who has a museum of traditional Saudi clothing, houshold items, and antiques. We got to play dress-up and take photos. Here we are in traditional clothes - notice my camel wool bag and the dagger at his waist. Sorry it's a bit blurry.
I also got to try on some wedding jewelry. It was heavy and this didn't even include the jewelry for the rest of the body plus all the paint they put on their faces.
The women take their shopping and fashion seriously. I always thought this was ironic since they have to put the abaya on when they go out, but they really enjoy looking nice for their husbands. Also, when a young single girl goes to a wedding she has to look her best because all the other moms are there to scope out and investigate the future daughter-in-laws.
I can't afford the dresses in the mall but a group of teachers and I went to the outskirts of town to the big second-hand market. It's called the Princess Souk and it's the best place to find cheap princess dresses.
It's like a giant outdoor D.I. or garage sale. Most of the dresses are between $5-10 so I had some fun. Here is a sneak peak of some things I bought:
I'm not sure when I'll wear them because they might be a little too much for church in Utah. :-)
